Woolly Pattern Fantastique Aeolian Tee

It’s the last week of October and I’ve made myself a WOOLLEN tee! Who makes a chunky black wool top in spring? Anyone living in Melbourne 2016 – that’s who. The weather around here is SO not behaving – there’s not even a hint of ‘transeasonal’ going down, just endless shivery, grey, rainy days. So with a dramatic flourish I cast aside my drapey viscose and paper thin linens because I realised I wasn’t going to make it through this ordeal without another layering top. Tops like this are my comfort blankets: the sleeves are already rolled up and you have a warm torso with arms free for the daily grind.
I made this tee with a scrap of wool gifted from a friend-of-a-friend in another state. Its origin and type is unknown so let’s just pretend it’s a VERY expensive Italian wool from some obscure but applauded designer. Super thick with a loose, twisty weave. The one downside to this mystery wool is it’s like a magnet to tiny lint particles – they stick to it like a fuzzy felt kit. Fortunately I have no lint in my life and am immaculately clean. Cough. Well, truthfully – my love for this top overrides the lint-factor. And the rabbit fur. And the cat fur. Etc.
I took a while to settle on a pattern for this fabric: I wanted to make an old favourite, the Nani Iro Recipe No 5, but my fabric scrap was too small – I’m talking half a metre of fabric here tops. So it sat on my sewing table most of winter. Then I wondered if a raglan might be more fabric-efficient and turned to another tried and true, the Pattern Fantastique Aeolian Tee. After some dodgy maths I worked out it was just possible if I shortened the bodice and sleeves.
Aside from shortening, I did a few tiny hacks on this one. I lifted the front neckline and omitted the facing piece at the back – which is a shame because it’s one of my favourite pattern details (like this one from the Drapery, we’ve been loving their spring top reviews and hoping the weather is slightly more tee-worthy over in Adelaide!?). Next time…when I have more fabric! I also reduced the sleeve volume a touch because I knew the wool wouldn’t drape and the sleeves would stand to attention – I’m slightly scared of wings.
To finish the top I hemmed the sleeve and bodice with a wide facing made from a light wool, and used a black knit for the neckband. My clever sewing friend Justine has been experimenting recently with mixing woven tops with knit necks, and I was keen to give it a try. It worked surprisingly well and I much prefer it to a faced neckline. Next time I’d make the neckband piece a little shorter/tighter as it’s borderline loose. I think I was too cautious about puckering the wool with a too-tight neckband, as always – live and learn.
Weather gods I’ll have you know I’ve already made a breezy linen dress for…err, spring. But there’ll be no show and tell any time soon – I’m frightened I might turn blue. Then again I could always layer it with my great big woolly tee!
Ugh I’m hearing you totally on the weather – I feel like such a whinger but COME ON! Anyway this is great! Can you believe I don’t think I’ve tried on any of Anna’s Aeolians? I must, clearly! And don’t you feel such smug triumph squeezing something out of a tiny piece of fabric? This is so chic, and I love the contrast knit neckline band – looks perfect from this pic!
Thanks Sarah! You must try an Aeolian – perfect top for skinny jeans or those smartly tailored pants you made! Oh you’ve worked me out – I LOVE to squeeze clothes out of small amounts of fabric.
This weather is driving me crazy! I might just need to take a leaf out of your book & make another warm layering piece! Styling & photos are gorgeous (as always). Can’t wait to see that linen dress.
Yes, well and truly over this weather, I want to start wearing skirts and short sleeved tops. Your Aeolian looks great, very versatile top.
Thanks Kathy! I’m hoping to pack away this wooly tee VERY SOON! Surely skirt season is near?
I love the combo of knit neckline and woven top – looks super comfy! I will have to give it a try. How did you finish it on the inside of the neckline?
Thank you. Actually a confession here – when I attach a knit neckband I don’t overlock the the band edge – I leave it raw. Way less bulk and it sits much flatter. I found that it doesn’t fray just rolls a little and looks and stays neat. Even after many washes.