Pattern Fantastique Falda Jacket

Pattern Fantastique Falda Jacket

You may have noticed we’re slightly crazed fans of Pattern Fantastique around here. I feel like we’ve spent the past few months exhausting the Aeolian and Celestial (is that even possible?), but they’re patterns we return to again and again – they have an edge that makes them a little more directional than your average pattern. So when the opportunity to test a new PF invention came up, the answer was simple. Yes please. Sight unseen.

Luckily I liked the look of the Falda Jacket immediately (phew!). The Falda is a drape pattern with a thoroughly post-modern silhouette. As sweetly summed up by PF’s Nita-Jane, it’s a nod to the classic Chanel tweed, the sensibility of a bomber jacket and the humour and volume of a Victorian era sleeve (oh yes – there’s volume).

 

Pattern Fantastique Falda

 

Working this pattern felt a little like doing fabric origami, and I found myself having to approach the make in a different way. I like to push my skills a little on each new project, but honestly this was more of a giant leap for me than a gentle push! But I got there in the end, and it was a very satisfying make. I think the pattern has evolved a little since I sewed this tester – and is no doubt even more refined and easier to sew.

I made my Falda on a sewing weekend away with crafty friends late last year. There are two versions of the jacket – one for lighter weight fabrics, and one for deep dark winter. As the weather on our little retreat was warm and summer holidays were approaching, all of my co-sewists spent their days making a series of singlets, sundresses and lightweight pants, which seemed to literally fly off their machines by the hour. I instead chose to make my Falda in wool, with full lining and welt pockets – as seasonally inappropriate as it gets. But it was great to have the uninterrupted time to dive into this project, as it took a while to come together (though the non-stop nattering and occasional G&T may have added a couple of hours….)

 

Pattern Fantastique Falda

 

I made this version with three fabrics: a warm charcoal silk from Rathdown Remnants for the lining, a Japanese black denim for the facing and a black and white, jagged weave, vintage pure wool from Crossley Job Lots for the main fabric. I have no idea what this weave is officially called – it’s not a herringbone, maybe some sort of tweed? Google is no help at all.

The pattern includes a zip, and the length was a bit of a challenge to find, especially in a simple utilitarian zip (I’m fussy). I ended up resizing a longer one with pliers after the first one I bought was completely and hilariously shredded by the owner of my local notions shop.  I got this one from M.Recht and sized it myself – actually easier than it sounds.

 

Pattern Fantastique Falda

 

Although there are many steps in the Falda process, the pattern comes with endless clear tips and diagrams for serious hand-holding – I’d say it’s the most detailed pattern I’ve ever sewn. The sleeves were the biggest challenge – not for the faint hearted. They come together in an impressive folding exercise; it’s hard to imagine the shape of them from the pieces (they don’t look recognisable as sleeves), but it’s such a lovely discovery to see them take shape.

 

Pattern Fantastique Falda

 

Pattern Fantastique Falda

 

My favourite part of the make was the welt pockets (I did mention I’m a sucker for challenges). The instructions are flawless – they take a bit of time but come together beautifully. I was pleased that my fabric choice is directional as the grain is emphasised by the pattern piece directioning. I’d recommend a fabric that has a clear grain direction because it also looks lovely on the sleeve pieces.

I may have felt slightly silly as I sweated over my heavy wool on summer camp, but I’m so smug now it’s getting cooler as I have a winter jacket ready and waiting (I know we talk about weather a lot). The sleeves are big enough to fit an army of layers underneath, so I feel like I’m equipped for anything in my Falda. And as with other PF patterns, I think this is a project I’ll definitely be revisiting.

 

Pattern Fantastique Falda

 

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10 comments

  • I love your version … and you styled it perfectly! Really nice … it’s soon easy to assassinate this pattern

  • Blinded by how amazing this is over here! It looks incredible. I wouldn’t be surprised if this outfit made it to an uber cool book about street style or something.
    Love that you went all in with the winter version, and that fabric is perfect. I tested the lighter weight version in black denim but am yet to get pics, must get around to it! Feeling emboldened now that I’ve seen yours and Anna’s. Also excited to make a wooly version now!

    • Your comment made my day. Thank you. Poor Kate I talked her into some public street style modelling – all for the good of sewing right! I envy your denim but I have a bit of a welt fetish at the moment. Look forward to seeing your version too. x

  • From one PF fan-girl to two others…. OMG I love love love your Falda. Beautifully sewn & photographed Klarissa and perfectly styled & modelled Kate. I may have a touch of welt envy!

  • Ooh those welts! Gorgeously executed! It’s quite the piece of art, that jacket! Amazing.

  • The falda is beyond awesome. I must make this jacket. I have a Italian wool just waiting for the perfect project and this could be it. I love your version. It’s beautiful.