In the Folds jumpsuit
The casual jumpsuit is a thing. It has been for some time. I like to spot them out and about …. they cycle past, I see them in cinemas and in cafes; I’ve spotted them in work meetings and even out walking the dog. They have me tracking them down the street like a stalker – a sewing stalker. I could make that! Such a simple cut and often in a rich linen. Sadly I am a jumpsuit virgin. They are not my bag and I’ve always been pretty sure they will pass me by.
Let’s cut to the end of the story. You can see the photos… I made the jumpsuit. Despite my serious camera face, I’m actually so happy with this onesie. A heartfelt thank you to In the Folds and Peppermint Magazine for the incredible (FREE!) pattern . For a sewing review more technical than I’m capable of, read this one from Jane at The Drapery (how I love her green jumpsuit). I share her hope that Emily from In the Folds gets paid a truckload and hope that Peppermint Mag appreciates the work that goes into these patterns. I’m truly in awe of pattern makers after making our simple Bombazine mitt pattern. A free pattern is a holy gift!
So you know the start and the end of this jumpsuit tale, but there’s a middle as well. Although I’d spotted many an admirable all-in-one, I didn’t see one in my future. Then I had a revelation: try one on! Do a test run on a ready to wear version and settle once and for all if a jumpsuit was meant to be mine. I’d been admiring this Kuwaii one for weeks, and contemplating how much it reminded me of the In the Folds pattern. So I waltzed on into the shop and tried one on. The price tag was high and the fit was poor on me, but I discovered I didn’t look foolish. It had wide legs I particularly liked – sort of a dress-shaped jumpsuit, which was the solution to my concern about tapered legs on a jumpsuit accentuating my hips and bottom. (For more on jumpsuits and bottoms I enjoyed this lovely post over at Noble and Daughter.)
The fabric I used is a black seersucker with tiny white printed crosses. It’s a light cotton but the dense weave and seersucker texture give it good structure. Note satisfying leg volume. I bought mine in Kyoto and I’ve also spotted it here and here – or if you’re after a cross-free seersucker this is delicious too.
As is my usual style, I bought barely enough fabric – squeezing this thing out resulted in a garment that’s just a shave off a zero waste situation. I was dutiful and made a toile because I’m getting better at sewing discipline – and I was worried the body might need lengthening. Turns out the fit was perfect, hooray for pattern makers that draft for ‘real’ bodies! (By real of course I mean not a stick thin supermodel – I know that every body is real. All of them). I made a size C. Clearly I meddled with leg width – this was super easy (below is a layman’s diagram of how I widened my legs). I was careful to add equal amounts on the front and back pieces and the inner and outer leg. The pattern is expertly executed and a quick and simple sew. You have to trust the pattern at the Burrito facing stage because it makes little sense until the final unveil – but that’s the beauty of following clever drafting!
My last little hack was to make the tie extra-long so I could cross it over in a loop at the front and have the tie at the back. Bows and ties are fashion’s bounty but when I wear them they bug me. I’m not very decorative and prefer function and comfort so this is a neat little tie solution.
So that’s my story – start, end and middle – and this is my casual jumpsuit. Time to walk the dog!